Já se falou aqui de Bottom Turn, das vedetas do surf feminino, Carissa Moore e sua amiguita Coco Ho, como apanhar mais ondas dentro de água e como dar cabo dos Cromos no pico, mas esquecemo-nos de falar do início de tudo, a primeira aula de todas – para mim e para a Mada- aqui ficam as dicas do dia:
Hoje vamos falar de DUCKDIVE explicado pelo especialista Nick Carroll (vês Mada, quem é amiga, quem é ??? )
“To best understand a duckdive, you should go for a swim in the ocean. No board, nothing. Just swim out toward a broken wave and dive under it. While you're doing this, think about what you're doing. First you go down, right? Then as the foam passes overhead, you’re kinda parallel to the surface. Then once the foam has passed, you tilt up, back to the surface. Yeah? It’s a very natural movement, led from the front: arms, head and shoulders guide the way.
That's all a duckdive is -- a swimmer's dive under a wave, except you’re taking your board for a ride.
Just as with a swimmer's dive, a good duckdive is led from the front and is all in the timing. And it should be done QUICKLY. Why? Because in order to duckdive well, you need forward momentum -- which means paddling until the very last moment.
Before the wave hits, you should give yourself just enough time to push all the board underwater, nose down and driving forward. Use both hands on the rail about two feet back from the nose, and one knee -- whichever leg you favor -- braced on the deck, wherever it naturally falls. The knee lets you use some small amount of body weight to get the tail under. (It's no good just pushing down the nose; if the tail is sticking up above the surface, it'll take the foam's heat and drag you backward.)
As the wave passes overhead, bring your upper body weight back, letting the nose rise. The downward pressure of wave energy -- by now pushing on the tail -- should help this to happen quite naturally.
Try to explode back to the surface: use the natural buoyancy of your board to pop up, giving yourself some paddling momentum straight away.”
Basicamente é isto…qual é o problema??? Agora é só praticar e ver as diferenças entre um bom ou um mau Bico-de-Pato; se passar a onda é bom, se formos parar à areia, talvez ainda não esteja no ponto!!!
Que tal esta ondinha para começar o treino??
